Відео

No problem 👍

Yeah, Trane puts all their piping, reversing valves, transducers, pressure switches and EEV on their heat pumps on the panel we have facing out. Customer wasn't too happy but it wasn't face that way to piss them off. We need it in case we ever have to work on those components.

@@baileysair i love it

First, where do you live? Second, mildew needs moisture and it sounds like you might live in a humid climate. The air could causing the surrounding drywall and the register to hit the dewpoint and condense moisture out of the air, I would bet that the bedrooms are clean because of lower airflow and longer runs of duct from the system allows keeps the temp a little higher and in those locations it isn't hitting the dew point.

@@baileysairThanks for the response! I’m in Texas so definitely some moisture here in the air. Maybe getting a dehumidifier in this spot of the house could help.

@@mixwithjerry Yes, a dehumidifier would definitely help. To check this theory I would first buy a hygrometer that will give you the relative humidity in the space and the temperature, home depot has some fairly inexpensive ones. Then get you one of those non-contact infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the surfaces where this mildew is forming when the system is running. You can then take the air temperature from the hygrometer along with the relative humidity and plug it into this calculator to see what the dewpoint is. www.calculator.net/dew-point-calculator.html Now use the non-contact thermometer to read the surface temperatures and see how close it actually is to the dewpoint. This will tell you if it is close that humidity and air temperature coming out of the ducts could be the problem. Good luck.

That sir is a E5 which at the time when I bought it about 15 years ago was top of the line and cost about $2,800. Today you can buy a better one for less than $2,000 with better resolution and more features. There are some really good ones for cell phones now that work almost as well as the dedicated FLIR. One thing to remember, the FLIR reads temperature of an opaque surface the shinier/reflective the surface the less emissivity of what you are trying to read. When it is reflective you are reading the what is reflected not the actual surface temperature of the object. Here is a pdf of the emissivity of different surfaces. ennologic.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Ultimate-Emissivity-Table.pdf

Great idea, in fact Quiet Cool makes a whole house fan for a garage. The difference between your fan and theirs is about $450 and moves about twice the air of a box fan, and most importantly theirs does have a fire damper in it just in case stuff in the garage caught fire. The damper would shut and keep the fire out of the attic long enough for the occupants to get out. Here is the link. store.quietcoolsystems.com/products/garage-fan-ga-es-1500?variant=41084471017653&currency=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw8fu1BhBsEiwAwDrsjMyISBcLwD6Y319pGLRWWP1t9zPJ7vef2lyd7r73--IXA9mPExdNLRoCil4QAvD_BwE

Thank you so much! I’ll check into it.

A limit is a over temp safety device, same as the flame roll out switch that is being tested in this video. However, all safety switches are wired in series so if one trips it trips the whole furnace and it stops working. The upper limit senses the airflow across the heat exchanger and if the temperature exceeds its rating it will trip usually around 180 degrees or more. A flame roll out will sense when flame is shooting out from the burners and will open up to prevent damage or fire. Hope this explained it all, if you have more questions feel free to post it in the comments.

Almost forgot, most upper limits are auto reset. When they trip and then cool off they will automatically reset. In many cases the airflow is too low moving across the heat exchanger due to a plugged coil, dirty filters or too many registers being closed. Many customers don't even know this occurring and only call because it seems to be cycling too much. The flame roll out switch wired in series with the upper limit switch is manual reset. This keeps the unit from running till someone comes out and resets it manually by pushing a button. This is to prevent damage inside the furnace from occurring.

@@baileysair hey! Thanks so much for writing back. I apologize in advance if these are stupid questions but: 1) is there a difference between “burner assembly” and “heat exchanger”? Kind of confused how these are different in terms of what each’s function is. 2) What’s a “cycling thermostat” in a dryer and do furnaces have these too or something like it but a diff name? 3) What does it mean if something is “in series” and why would that make everything go off within “that series”? Thanks so much!!

So the burner assembly is outside of the heat exchanger and where all the magic happens with the gas. The burners purpose is to efficiently mix air and fuel and control the flame so that it stays centered in the inlet side of the heat exchanger. Some furnace have NOx rods that allow for cleaner burning of the flame reducing the amount of NOx the furnace produces. These NOx rods are inside the inlet opening of the heat exchanger and can be seen glowing cherry red. With an LP furnaces some manufacturers will tell you to remove the NOx device as the excessive heat of LP gas will disintegrate them over time. 1) The heat exchanger is a sealed chamber sometimes called the firebox that transfers the heat from the burners while keeping the combustion gasses separate of the airflow. The heat exchanger is a sealed chamber. Depending on the manufacturer it could be tubes or it could be a clamshell configuration with two plates welded together. 80% furnaces have slow down the flow of combustion gasses through the heat exchanger to allow an efficiency of 80%. In other words for every dollar of gas spent 80% of the heat is transferred to the air flowing around the heat exchanger and 20% flows out through the flue/chimney, you are getting 80 cents for every dollar you spend for heat into the home. 90%+ furnaces slow down the combustion gasses so much that we improve that efficiency to as high as 98% on some furnaces. On 90% furnaces they have a secondary heat exchanger that is actually a coil. In this coil a large amount of water is condensed out of the flue gasses. This is why they are called condensing furnaces. This water has to be managed and flows out through what we call a cold header into a drain system out of the furnace. If the heat exchanger develops a leak they need to be either replaced or a new furnace needs to be installed. 2) As far as I can tell, because I don't work on dryers, the cycling thermostat is there to help regulate temperature of the dryer air by limiting how hot it can get. It seems to be the same as a limit switch in a furnace. 3) When an electrical circuit is wired in series it allow electricity to flow through it. If this circuit has multiple switches wired in series then if any of those switches happen to open up the electricity will cease to flow. Safety switches are always wired in series so that if something should go awry they will shut down the electrical component. Limit switches and flame roll out switches are such devices. On the cooling side we have low and high pressure switches. Another safety device in furnaces is the pressure switch. This switch has normally open and normally closed contacts and when a furnace call for heating the board will see if the contacts are open then after the inducer motor energizes check to see if the contacts have closed allowing the furnace to continue operation. Hope this helped

@@baileysair what a wonderful set of answers! I will just say with one caveat: dryers have a thermal fuse (it’s temp limit is higher than the high limit thermostat), a high limit thermostat/switch (temp limit higher than the cycling thermostat) and a cycling thermostat, the former two being safety devices. Does that pin down a better answer to that particular question I have? Does a furnace have the same set up? Also this pressure switch you mention in a furnace you say it’s normally open and normally closed? I thought a switch is either a normally open switch, OR it is a normally closed switch!

I also like the FC40R they are great as long as you build a square to round or a tall return can to take full advantage of the all the filter area. You know if you put a second FG in you can usually get 6 months use out of these before you need to replace them.

No crystal ball here, but the industry has lots of tricks up it's sleeve. I think there will be a drop in replacement that will cost way less than banned R410a in the future. The market will dictate because they can make a ton of money providing an alternate to R410a. In addition, there is millions of units that will need replacing in the future with R410a in them and we will have reclaimed and recycled for quite a long time. My problem with banning R22 back in the 80's because of the hole in the Ozone layer was rushed. They had only discovered the hole a few years earlier and there was less than 10 years of data to go on. I also find it hugely coincidental that DuPont was losing their patent rights for R12 and R22 about the same time so that any company could manufacture R22 without paying a royalty to DuPont, Hmmmm. Follow the money, it doesn't lie.

So the problem here was that the motor was replaced with a motor that had a longer frame than the old motor. This in turn causes the blade to be too low when placed about the same spot on the shaft as the old motor because the frame is longer. However, there is enough shaft left to move the blade up more into the shroud. The customer is opting to replace the system because of the age and other problems they are having. I will go out before we replace the system and move the blade up and show the results. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the comment. I am advising all my customers with older equipment to think about replacing now. In fact our suppliers have told us that they are starting to run out of R410a and that before the beginning of the year I might be stuck with the new refrigerants and the higher costs, which I have to pass along to you the customer. I think you made the right decision. Thanks again.

I think what we're seeing is an artifact of the framerate. The blade is likely spinning correctly, it's just a mechanically induced optical illusion! =)

@@danielleclark-zack864 Was wondering if that would be the case, I mean he did say it was spinning right. Wouldn't be the 6th time ive seen that though.

Its an optical illusion with the camera, Anit DYI has commented on his videos that it is apparent that it is running backwards, its just the way the frame rate of the camera changes. To verify, I turned the unit off at the disconnect and watched as it slowed down to make sure it wasn't running backwards.

I am telling you its flow electrification making a corrosion that would occur naturally over time happen much faster. Some university student looking for their masters should take this up, hell they might win a Nobel prize.

My truck is 2019 F150 crew cab that cost $50,000 when new back then, I live in a home I built with my own hands in 1986 for $59,000 and my sweat equity, worth about $600,000 now due to inflation (Thanks Biden). I still have a mortgage because we had to refinance our home to pay off suppliers in 2010 because I had several builders that declared bankruptcy and never paid us. I did the right thing and paid our suppliers. I can only say that you have no clue what you are talking about and are really the one detached from reality. You sir are a moron. Customers like stability, they want a company they can rely on to be there when they need them and service them. That means that I have to pay a decent wage, pay all our expenses, pay our taxes, pay fees, and if any is left pay ourselves and some years we don't. You also forget that we as owners of a company take all the risk as I pointed out in the first paragraph. However, to be kind, I retract that you are a moron, you are just ignorant and that may not be your fault as your teachers in school have left you lacking an education. I whole heartedly suggest you take a few classes, or even watch a few UA-cam videos on economics and running a business. Good luck on your journey to capitalism. ua-cam.com/video/Icxmyt_HFJ4/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/9I_-ADGrKQo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/EJHPltmAULA/v-deo.html

@@baileysair one way or another you are where you are at because you’re related to someone rich or connected somehow because hard work doesn’t pay. Iv been learning every thing I can to get a job that actually pays enough to pay the rent for me and my family and no matter what no one ever keeps their word. Two years ago I applied at multiple HVAC company’s and they would only offer me 15$ an hour. So I found a few local guy to work for and learn from on the side. I ended up doing everything they asked and more and even paid for myself to get epa certified but none of them would ever pay me any more. Last week I went to thoese same established have companies to reinterview now that I have experience and epa type 1 and 2. They laughed and offered me 15$ an hour still. All of you contractors come from old money and wouldn’t dream of giving someone like me a fair chance at a pay that would even qualify for section 8 housing. You can say you aren’t rich all you want but I’ll never know what it’s like to own a home or take my wife and kids on vacation or even simply live paycheck to paycheck. I don’t understand why businesses owners think it’s so fun to watch people like me beg to make enough to not have to need food stamps but Youl help a sales guy make 150k a year when they don’t even know how to get into a crawlspace even if they were willing too.

I would replace it now before R410a system are gone even though you might get another 5 years out of the old system. I recommend you go with an all aluminum coil as you won't see the corrosion as you would see on a galvanized fin plates as they would be aluminum. You can insist on this from your contractor, make them put it in the contract. Humidity is a problem with any brand of equipment. It would not hurt to save the UV system and have it installed on the new unit. If you asthma and allergies I suggest you go with a Trane CleanEffects Whole Home Air Cleaner to capture what the UV doesn't kill. You can always email me your proposal and I can look it over before you make a decision and give you some advice. baileysair@sbcglobal.net Mitch

We insulate to slow down heat transfer, to keep rooms cooler or warmer. However, it works both ways by also keeping them warmer or cooler once they reach the desired temperature. Your floor garage ceiling should already be insulated between floors if I am reading what you said correctly. If they are not then you should insulate them.

The way homes are constructed in California and some other states have single return airs in the hallway or center of the home. This is to save money. If a room has a door that is shut the only way to get the air from that room back to the unit is through the undercut of the door. Say the room is fairly large and needs quite a lot of air and has say it needs a 9" duct to that room and the customer has thick pad and carpet with a small undercut of the door, that is the door actually drags the carpet. Then that room will work fine as long as the door is open. Close the door and you will cut off the flow of air back to the return. Think of the door as a giant damper and the opening in the door as a giant duct, shut the door and you cut off the air from that room. The air will take the path of least resistance and go somewhere else, just as if a damper was shut. To compensate for this we can install a crossover duct that just hops the wall so that when the door is shut the air will flow through the cross over duct. My video on cutting in a duct is one of those cross over ducts for a bedroom that the kid would keep shut while playing games. The bedroom would get hot from lack of airflow. The cross over duct fixed it.

@baileysair Thank you, Mitchell. I've been watching your videos for quite some times now, at least 3yrs as I can remember. It has always been helpful and for that I say Thank you! If you're still out there in the field, stay cool and hydrated. God bless, and looking forward for more of your videos. Phong from Sacramento, Ca. 👍

@@pvantran82 Thanks Phong

This was low voltage test. However, you could kill the power and pull the leads and check it for continuity, either way will work.

There is always a trade off. This morning 07-09-24 it was 70 degrees so I opened the windows and turned on the fan to cool things off and the wife will shut the fan off and close the windows when she gets up. However, last night it was still 80 degrees at midnight so we used the AC set to 80 degrees and the ceiling fans to keep cool while we slept. Yes, dust is always a problem with whole house fans and so are allergies. Many customers cannot have their windows open with the fan going because of their allergies. In that case by the most efficient AC and insulate the house well to keep your bills low.

I was very vocal on the internet and Lennox threatened to sue me. At the time I was ready to go to court as this problem was still costing me thousands and pissing off all my customers. The just a few years later the group of lawyers that filed a class action against Lennox over these coils hired me to write up the costs associated with replacing coils out of warranty and in warranty. They used that to negotiate the settlement with Lennox.

Yes sir, so noted, but this is not a register or a return it is a cross over.

Glad I could help!

I would add the nameless administrators and bureaucrats that are really running things. Just write a regulation and we sheeple must obey!

Right! I mean it all sounds great, lets save the planet, global warming, stop climate change, reduce your carbon footprint. But at what cost? This is costing thousands of dollars for consumers without showing any real benefit. There are no numbers that they can show you of how much this will, if any, reduce global warming. Reminds me of Chicken Little, the sky is falling!

Here in lies the problem, a few bureaucrats are making regulations based upon unsettled science. What I am not saying is that global warming isn't happening, what I am saying is that the scientists that create models that show the earth boiling in 50 to a 100 years have been proven wrong every time, I repeat EVERY TIME! Yet we are basing changes that will cost millions if not billions, all based on models whose predictions are wrong every time. This money would be better spent giving clean water to third world countries or something like that.

Owning a business is a balancing act, if we overcharge we lose customers, if we under charge we either have to short change the customer and/or pay ridiculously low wages or both, or worse go out of business. Staying in business means you need to pay your people, pay the rent, pay your insurance, pay the utilities, pay for advertising, pay for vehicles, pay for fuel, pay for vacations for your employees, pay for training your employees, pay for mill tax, pay state income tax, pay sales tax, pay for business licenses, pay for federal taxes, pay the office staff, pay the shop person, pay for permits.... the list goes on and on, and in the end you need to make a profit. Plus, you have to do this every day, every week, every month and every year to continue to operate. Simply put, I am not going to retire off a measly run capacitor that I sell you, in fact all HVAC companies out there couldn't stay open just doing repairs. They all need to sell equipment, the service department is just the means to an end, Having the opportunity to sell the customer a new system. Might I suggest that you open your own electrical company, get the required business and contractors licenses, the necessary bonds and insurance, buy a couple of trucks, hire a couple of people that want to get a decent wage, pay the payroll taxes, rent a building, advertise and then put a couple of years of business under your belt, then come and have a discussion with me after that. If you haven't changed your mind by then, well then you are doing something different than everyone else in this business. Good luck to you. Oh, and by the way, thanks for the comment.

Ironically, many mini splits have already switched to the new refrigerants overseas, almost all window units and PTAC's are already using this refrigerant. That being said, I believe that this is bureaucracy run amok based on junk science all to make everyone feel good that they are doing something. Plus, didn't I say 30% more = $$$$$$$ for the manufacturers.

Hopefully with the new Chevron decision handed down by the Supreme Court might allow a look at all these regulations and maybe a rollback. One could only hope.

what brand did u go with?

@@MrRjnr Same brand, Rheem 4 ton, cost me $4200 for outside unit and inside air handler. Also, it has a soft start unit already built in which is amazing. Where I live we don't have unionized AC repairmen hence the lower price. fyi

@@rogerbec5766 wow, great!

You know the minute they discovered the hole in the 80's they banned all the HCFC's. Yet the hole persists Hmmmmm, maybe something else is to blame?

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. It makes you wonder if bureaucrats are taking bribes to change regulations that require consumers to upgrade to expensive new equipment and new refrigerants. I have never seen any scientific proof that this refrigerant change will have any positive effect on the environment especially with countries like India and China increasing the total output of pollution.

That is a good question, I will have to research and get back to you.

The premise of CO2 being the sole culprit of Climate Change ignores the biggest driver of climate, the sun, Mic drop.

@@baileysair And water vapour has even more warming effects...

The biggest greenhouse gas that no one talks about, water vapor. How are even supposed to limit that?

You have special needs that we don't have here in California, humidity. Humidity plays such an important role in large sections of the country. In your case you need a system that can provide the cooling while dehumidifying. We slow down the fan speed from 400 cfm per ton to usually 350 cfm or 325 cfm to remove more moisture from latent cooling (wet bulb). In California we actually bump up the fan speed to 450 cfm or better because of our dry climate to get more sensible cooling (dry bulb) for higher efficiencies. In your case sizing takes on an important role, thus the load calculation, because an oversized unit will cycle on and off too quickly to remove humidity properly. Going with a variable speed can help but setting them up can be problematic to keep the humidity down and keep you cool. Some people install a separate dehumidifier that works independently or in conjunction with your A/C. Trane makes such a product, Integrated dehumidification Solution IDS. You could also have a reheat coil installed on the system that allows for the system to dehumidify and not overcool the air. Trane used to build a system like that but I never had to use it because of our low humidity in California. You should look for a contractor in the area that has been around for a while and will actually do a load calculation on the home, then ask how they handle humidity issues with the systems that they sell.

He should have charged less if he is there for something else. The price in the video is for a standalone repair. In your case our techs are taught if there is more than one repair to take the most expensive repair and any others are halved as we are there taking care of more than one problem. Lets say he finds a bad condenser fan motor and our price is $580 to replace but he also finds a bad dual run capacitor that is priced at $300. It would then sell for $150 so the total repair would be $730 and not $880.

I agree. However, we get tons of work from DIY people watching a video that try to fix it themselves. I mean I could mow my lawn, but I don't because I can spend my time doing something else that will make me more money so I can pay a guy to mow my lawn, plus I think he does a better job than I.

Code is code, move the detector.

Yeah right, what is this world coming to!

Extra insulated! It's a bonus at no extra charge!

Right!

Technically a fire hazard also

And pretty damn lazy.

We use margin and not mark up which is calculated differently. A few decades ago a friend of mine was a manager at an outdoor apparel store. A shirt they paid $1.10 for, sold for $40 when on sale, and $60 regular price. That is 36 times the cost of the shirt. But nobody batted an eye about that. My capacitor is $10 so its a bargain at only 30 times cost, plus I am going to your home and have to pay a guy that actually knows what he is doing.

Sorry you have had such bad luck. Unfortunately, mini splits use only copper aluminum. We too have had to change many coils out for mini splits. This is one reason I don't recommend them to my customers and instead go with central heating and air. Thanks for the comment.

@@baileysair I also had the air coil go on my ground floor pump from a bad soldering job. All are ducted in , no mini splits. I've paid out over $3k the last couple years plus $800 in increased hydro because the leak. I could have bought fire wood and heated for 3 yrs on that. They painted the coil on the Fujitsu with a corrosion inhibitor. If it goes again I'm done with it.

@@edwardthompson9981 On a few of the mini split coils we have replaced we were able to get a coated coil from the manufacturer and they all worked out and are so far leak free. So, good luck.

There be gold in them there hills!

Yes, it is a waste to put duct mast where it does nothing. The goal is seal air leaks, so only at and on the joints.